The city known for its Golden Temple, delightful cuisine and rich history oozes a warm, intriguing vibe that will entice you to keep coming back
Punjab’s gem in Northwest India, was established almost 500 years ago called Ambarsar by locals, by the fourth guru of Sikhs, Ram Das, who also laid the foundation of the Golden Temple here, considered to be the largest Sikh shrine in the world. “Amritsar has come a long way – from the reign of the Mughals followed by rule of the Sikh empire to the colonial times,” says historian Surinder Kochar. “It’s also called a holy city because of its many shrines, but the Golden Temple stands out.”
Today it’s a city of modern shopping malls, luxury hotels and creative coffee, but the city’s heart remains in the old quarter, an ancient walled city where you’ll find the best traditional eats with a side of history. There’s no better way to start a weekend tour but right here, in Ambarsar’s heart.
Day 1
Walled city wonders
Morning. Start with breakfast of kulcha, clay oven-baked spicy flat bread stuffed with mashed potatoes and vegetables and served with chickpea curry, at Pehalwan Kulcha near Chatiwind Gate. At this small, old-fashioned place that’s been serving kulcha meals since 1953, you can watch cooks prepare your meal in the open kitchen.
Then head to the Partition Museum in the colonial-era Town Hall, the world’s first museum dedicated to the partition of Pakistan and India in August 1947. The museum, opened in 2017, documents the largest forced mass migration in modern history, during which at least 15 million Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims were displaced. There are video interviews with the survivors, artefacts including newspapers announcing the partition and personal items – from trunks and clothes to books and utensils – that people brought along as they scrambled to meet the midnight deadline. The gallery that spotlights how the borderline was finalised is quite illuminating, if not confronting.
Afternoon. The Golden Temple, also known as the Harmandir Sahib, was completed in 1604. As the name suggests, its inner sanctum is decorated in gold and sits in the middle of a large pool, locally known as the sarovar. Visit the Central Sikh Museum and Digital Sikh Museum, both part of the Golden Temple complex, to learn about Sikh history through artworks, artefacts and documentaries. Its free community kitchen (called langar), which feeds thousands of visitors every hour, is a warm, soul-touching space. People from all corners of the world and from diverse faiths partake in these simple vegetarian meals. Feel free to volunteer peeling vegetables, preparing food and serving meals for a more enriching experience at the temple.
Evening. Stroll down the lively Heritage Street, lined with fine examples of Sikh, Mughal and colonial-era architecture. As a pre-dinner treat, sample street food such as aloo tikki, golgappa and kulfi. End the day with a sumptuous meal at Kesar Da Dhaba, located in Chowk Passian. The restaurant is over a century old, yet its lentil curry, slow-cooked for the entire day, is a classic staple.
Day 2
A glimpse of rural life
Morning. Enjoy breakfast at Giani Tea Stall, a traditonal tearoom on Cooper Road, where locals like to gather for morning socials after a walk at the nearby Company Garden. Giani Tea Stall’s kachori – a fried pie filled with lentil powder and spices – tastes best with their masala chai. The classic omelette with toasted bread and butter buns are also a big hit.
Walk it all off at the Company Garden, also known as Ram Bagh, spread over 84 acres. Built in 1831 by the Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the chief of the Sikh empire, the highlight here is the grand museum: Maharaja Ranjit Singh Summer Palace. If you’ve always wondered how a maharaja lived, this museum – which houses mannequins, paintings and rare collections of the maharaja’s arms, manuscripts and coins – paints a pretty vivid picture.
Afternoon. Visit Gobindgarh Fort on old Cantonment Road, a historic military fort with a theatre that showcases an animated 3D movie on the life and times of Maharaja Ranjit Singh; a Turban Museum which presents the history of turbans along with a wide variety of styles; and two resident camels, popular among visitors for rides.
Evening. Head to Haveli, a Punjabi restaurant in Jandiala Guru, just a 20-minute drive from the city centre. It’s also a living museum inspired by rural life, the centre of attraction being the village street with replicas of homes, a post office, jeweller and schools. There are outdoor food stalls, but for dinner, take a table indoors to soak up the grandeur of the restaurant’s soaring ceilings. The extensive menu takes you on a tour around India, from north to south, as well as side trips to China. Pizzas, burgers and fries are also available.
Day 3
Bazaars and borders
Morning. Catch the sunrise at Ram Tirath on Chogawan Road, about 15 minutes’ drive from the city centre. According to Hindu mythology, this was once the hermitage of Lord Valmiki, poet and author of the epic poem Ramayana. It’s also said to be the birthplace of Luv and Kush, sons of the epic’s protagonist and Hindu goddess Sita. In the last decade, the government turned it into a huge temple complex, renovating its sacred and historic pool and constructing a Valmiki shrine in the middle of it.
Meditate by the tranquil waters bathed by the first rays of the sun. Back in Amritsar, indulge in a popular local ritual of eating chole puri, an aromatic chickpea curry served with flat bread, at one of the Hindu temple canteens. One of the best places is the canteen of Shri Durgiana Mandir near Hathi Gate. This temple sits close to the walled city – home of many bazaars – so it’s a perfect opportunity to shop for clothes and footwear at Chitta Katra, Dharam Singh Market and Katra Jaimal Singh. On the lookout for some jewellery? Head over to Guru Bazaar. Fuel up with an Amritsari lassi, a yogurt drink available at nearly every turn.
Afternoon. Head to the India–Pakistan border (about a 40-minute drive from Amritsar) to catch a special parade at 5pm. During the parade, which has been held daily since 1959, the Indian
Border Security Force and Pakistan Rangers open the border gates for a quick handshake and a flag lowering ceremony. The synchronised high-kicks and marching is riveting to watch. After the show, visitors can get close to the gates for pictures with soldiers.
Evening. Enjoy a final meal in the city at Crystal Restaurant, a storied establishment that opened before the partition in 1935. It began as an open-air restaurant with a limited menu. Today, it’s a premium fine dining spot that offers a multi-cuisine menu with a European vintage vibe. Go for the Indian specialities, such as Shahi paneer and malai kofta. End the night on a sweet note and wander over to A-One, just a few steps away from Crystal, for a satisfying serving of traditional ice cream called kulfa.
Where to stay
Ramada by Wyndham. Just steps away from the Partition Museum and other attractions, this European-inspired hotel also offers panoramic views from its rooftop pool.
Taj Swarna. Conveniently located next to a shopping mall and just 5km away from the Golden Temple. This luxury hotel also has a separate floor reserved for solo women travellers.
Radisson Blu. One of the most popular airport hotels, it provides free shuttle service to the walled city. Host a grand event in their elegant ballroom or verdant gardens.
