Glutinous Finesse

Lemang is a traditional dish of glutinous rice, coconut milk and salt cooked in a hollowed bamboo tube lined with banana leaf. It is often eaten with curries and meat dishes like beef rendang, and many often find themselves craving this dish previously found only during Eid holidays. But now, many sellers and restaurateurs offer lemang or rendang or both year-round, found at the places listed below.

Pop-up lemang stalls 

The approach of Hari Raya Aidilfitri is the best time to sample lemang, as stalls pop up to cater to the seasonal demand. You can’t miss the smoke billowing from makeshift tents by the road and the rows of bamboo sticks over charcoal-fired grills. Popular spots with multiple vendors are located along the MRR2 Highway in Hulu Kelang and in Pantai Dalam and Taman Tun Dr Ismail. The best lemang is cooked through, firm and moist with sweet and salty hints. It’s sold alongside home-cooked spicy meat dishes of beef and chicken rendang. 

Pak Ali Lemang (Warisan)

Lemang is a seasonal recipe that’s not always readily available, but it’s possible to get your mitts on this tasty rice concoction all year round at Pak Ali Lemang in Ulu Kelang. Fresh coconut milk and diligent attention during the cooking process ensure perfectly cooked and fragrant lemang here. Thick, dark-coloured Rendang Tok (a type of rendang popular in Malaysia’s northern Perak state) is a flavoursome match for the rice. During the festive season, Pak Ali works around the clock to satisfy the surge in orders.

When ready to eat, the bamboo stick is split open to retrieve the lemang inside. Unwrap the banana leaf and slice the sticky, cooked rice into individual portions.

Capital Nasi Dagang

Fortunately for us in the Klang Valley, the Foo family from northeastern Kelantan state recently brought their culinary know-how with them when they moved here. Capital Nasi Dagang’s homely set-up is matched by a simple menu that revolves around the rice dishes of nasi dagang and nasi lemak. Mains include a fork-tender beef rendang that’s slowly braised until the meat absorbs every bit of wonderful flavour from the spice-laden coconut milk gravy it’s cooked in. Order it as part of the nasi dagang set, an East Coast speciality of brown rice steamed with fenugreek seeds, coconut milk, shallots and ginger. 

Dancing Fish

This Malay-Indonesian restaurant has staked its claim among discerning diners for good food in an attractive environment. The beef rendang here is made from prime Australian beef tenderloin, braised over a low fire until aromatic and tender. Get this in a set with two types of rice, two vegetables of the day, taufu tempe and deliciously bittersweet emping crackers served with a gorgeous sambal. Also try the signature deep-fried ‘dancing fish,’ named for its graceful presentation, and buntut Belado enak, or Australian oxtail slathered with herbs and spices, then braised and barbecued to perfection over charcoal embers.

Bijan

The upscale Bijan in the heart of town is interesting for its variety of rendang with different meats. Try the opor rusuk, an Indonesian-influenced dish of slow-cooked beef ribs in a rich and aromatic gravy; it’s one of the restaurant’s best-sellers. The rendang kambing, or chunky lamb shoulder slowly braised in aromatic spices and coconut milk, boasts big, bold and robust flavours. And the rendang itik Bijan is a slightly different take on tradition; a whole duck leg is deep-fried and smothered in a rich rendang gravy.

Sambal Hijau

This pleasant little restaurant on the fringes of Kuala Lumpur is perfect if you want a wide sampling of kampong, or village-style, Malay cuisine. For lunch, it has over 50 dishes spread out buffet-style, featuring various curries, fish, seafood, vegetables and meat, including a lovely beef rendang. Ask for a plate of rice and make your selection at your leisure. Portions are calculated individually. Since the restaurant is extremely popular with the lunch crowd, it’s best to get here by noon to avoid the rush and to savour the full assault of its culinary arsenal.

Discover

Directories

Pak Ali Lemang

35 Jalan AU 5, Lembah Keramat, Ulu Kelang, Kuala Lumpur

+6012 254 0969

Capital Nasi Dagang

29 Jalan 21/1A, Damansara Uptown, Petaling Jaya

+6012 921 5200

Dancing Fish

Lot T120, 121 & 122, 3rd floor, Bangsar Shopping Centre, Kuala Lumpur

+603 2095 6663

Bijan

3 Jalan Ceylon, Kuala Lumpur

+603 2031 3575

Sambal Hijau

2990 Jalan Sungai Penchala, Kampung Sungai Penchala, Kuala Lumpur

+603 7731 2045