Find the best things to do, eat and buy in Sandakan, Sabah
Sandakan is Sabah state’s second-largest city and is the administrative centre of the Sandakan Division. It once served as the capital of British North Borneo from 1884–1946. The now-bustling city was also the site of a World War II Japanese airfield, which was built in the early 1940s.
Sandakan is renowned as the gateway for unique eco-tourism destinations, namely the Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, the Turtle Islands Park, Sukau Proboscis Lodge and the archaeological Gomantong Caves, the largest limestone outcrop in Lower Kinabatangan and home to many endemic species of bats and swiftlets. While 24 hours is too short a time to soak up all that Sandakan has to offer, here are some must-dos and must-visits in its city centre.
Saturday
6am – Fuel up with a Sandakan breakfast
Known as “Little Hong Kong”, many believe that Sandakan’s lifestyle and overall vibes are identical to that of olden-day Hong Kong. Start your morning right with a strong cup of kopi nai (Sandakan’s version of a latte) and local cakes – the most popular being the iconic UFO tart. This tart features a crumbly butter crust, a rich and creamy custard filling and a light and fluffy meringue topping. If you fancy something more than pastries for breakfast, the handmade fish noodles at Kedai Makan Kong Teck is a must-try. Kedai Makan Kong Teck
7am – Explore art on the street
When you’ve had your fill of breakfast, you can now begin your exploration of Sandakan city.
As with Kota Kinabalu and other parts of Malaysia, the Sandakan art scene has begun to blossom. Exploring on foot, you will encounter stretches of beautiful murals and street art covering the buildings around town, which also make for a beautiful, photogenic background. The newly minted Sandakan Creative Lane is one of the latest artsy spots in Sandakan that is reminiscent of Penang’s Armenian Street. Jalan Perkhidmatan
8am – A stroll with a side of history
The Sandakan Memorial Park sits on the former site of the Sandakan Camp. The park is dedicated to the camp’s prisoners of war who perished during the Sandakan-Ranau Death March during World War II.
Today, this memorial park serves as the venue for the annual Anzac Day and Sandakan Memorial Day when fallen heroes are honoured with a solemn ceremony. The park is open to the public to learn more about Sandakan’s precolonial history. Jalan Labuk
9am – Journey along the Sandakan Heritage Trail
After a visit to the Sandakan Memorial Park, it’s time to get to know this historical city better by way of the Sandakan Heritage Trail.
The Sandakan Heritage Trail begins at the over 100-year-old Masjid Jamik, to the Pryer Memorial and up a colourful 100-step stairway that leads to a breathtaking bird’s eye view of Sandakan town and bay. This trail also covers major historical sites of Sandakan such as the Agnes Keith House, the St. Michael’s and All Angels Church, the Sam Sing Kung (Three Saints) Temple and the Goddess of Mercy Temple. Jalan Tiga, Third Avenue
11am – Break for coffee
San Da Gen Kopitiam has probably been covered exhaustively by foodies in Sandakan and travel bloggers visiting Sandakan for the first time, and for a good reason! The restaurant offers a unique old-world ambience and delicious fusion foods. Their bestsellers are the durian and salted egg custards and signature nasi lemak. Come for some of the best fusion delicacies you can find in Sandakan, stay for the charming, nostalgic Hong Kong atmosphere. Lebuh Dua
12pm – Encounter Bornean wildlife
A visit to Sandakan won’t be complete without a visit to the Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC), approximately a 40-minute drive away from the Sandakan city centre.
Regarded as one of the best environmental education centres in Sabah, RDC is located within the Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve. The RDC lets visitors experience nature up close while educating them on the importance of rainforest conservation. You may spot wildlife such as civets, slow lorises, flying squirrels, tarsiers, various birds, mouse deer and even orangutans here. Just a stone’s throw away is the Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Sanctuary (look out for the 3pm viewing session at the feeding platform) and the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre (BSBCC). Jalan Fabia
7pm – Seafood feast at Buli Sim Sim Water Village
Don’t leave Sandakan without having a seafood meal at this historic village known for its traditional stilt houses and waterfront views. Try D72 Sim-Sim Seafood Restaurant where dishes are mainly prepared Cantonese style. Crowd favourites include sweet and sour grouper fish, steamed tiger prawn with garlic and stir-fried sayur manis or Sabah vegetable, a type of leafy greens that are native to the state. 72, Jalan Sim Sim
9pm – Supper and nightcap with a view
In Sandakan, Ba Lin is a must-go for social hour with a sweeping view of Sandakan Bay. This rooftop bar and restaurant is built above the now-defunct landmark of Nak Hotel, built in the 1960s. It reopened recently after a hiatus during the pandemic. Try their signature Gula Melaka (caramelised sugar) NZ Lamb Racks and the Valrhona Chocolate Lava Cake. Jalan Pelabuhan Lama
Sunday
8am – Souvenir-hunting and thrift shopping in the city
Sandakan is full of thrift boutiques selling second-hand “bundle” items and Empayar Bundle Sandakan is a crowd favourite. If you’re willing to spend a few hours browsing, you’ll be surprised with what rare gems you’ll stumble upon, from limited edition rock band t-shirts to vintage ceramic vases. The city also hosts the Sandakan Bundle Fest annually at Padang Bandaran Sandakan, where thrifters from all over Sabah gather for a three-day treasure hunt. The festival has historically been held on a weekend between late January till end of February, so stop by if you’re in town during this period. Jalan Persiaran Bakau
All photographs by Tracia Goh.
