24 hours in George Town

Photography: Thinnesh Kumar

As you wander through the streets of George Town, Penang’s historical capital, prepare to witness an array of multicultural influences seen in the city’s capital: narrow shophouses, colonial-era buildings with Art Deco and Anglo-Indian influences, a Victorian clocktower, intricate Chinese clan halls and elegant mosques.

Centuries after its establishment in 1786 as a key trading port and earliest British settlement in Southeast Asia, George Town has reinvented itself as a vibrant, progressive and creative city in recent years, full of fascinating sights, experiences and delicious food. Grab your best walking shoes for your exploration of this Unesco World Heritage city and follow our 24-hour guide to make the most out of your day.

Saturday

8am: A delicious start

Penang is famous for its hawker centres, thus it is only fitting to start the day at one. OO White Coffee Carnarvon Street is an excellent spot for local Penang street food. The must-tries are iced white coffee, Tiger char kuey teow (flat rice noodles fried with duck egg and prawns) and the deep-fried oyster omelette that will tantalise your taste buds. For locally roasted coffee and waffles, opt for Norm Micro Roastery. Located in a former shipping yard, the unmarked minimalist café may be tricky to find, but the reveal is worth it.

9am: A walk through time

Before the day heats up, take a scenic walk around Chew Jetty, a water village built over 100 years ago by Chinese immigrants who came to the island to work in the fishing industry. Chew Jetty is the largest and most well-preserved of the island’s six clan jetties. Throughout the jetty, you’ll find brief history lessons in the form of information boards detailing the story of the Chew clan and their role in the development of Penang.

10am: War and peace

To escape the city’s hustle and bustle, take the funicular railway up Penang Hill, also known as Bukit Bendera. The hill offers breathtaking views of the island and a variety of activities. To learn more about the hill’s diverse flora and fauna, check out The Habitat, a park that serves as a gateway to one of Malaysia’s diverse rainforests.

Not a nature buff? Visit Kek Lok Si Temple, Malaysia’s largest Buddhist temple complex. The walk up the temple is long, but you can buy refreshments and browse souvenirs along the way as the stairs are lined with shops.

For something off the beaten track, check out the Penang War Museum for a glimpse into the history of World War II in Southeast Asia. The British built the fort in the 1930s to defend against a potential Japanese invasion by sea. After years of abandonment, it was converted into a museum and opened its doors in 2002. You can also explore the forts, old tunnels, bunkers and firing pits.

1pm: Island eats

George Town’s contemporary food scene has been making a splash in recent years. ISLANDPRBLMS is a don and sando bar serving Thai-Japanese fusion food. Seating is limited, so plan ahead. Signature dishes here are the trio roe pasta and steak and butter rice.

Another is Laksalicious, an all-in-one pitstop to try variations of an iconic local dish – laksa. Choose between laksa Penang for a more tangy, sour soup or laksa lemak for a creamier soup. For an added twist, try the sweet and refreshing “laksa” tea, made with similar ingredients of a laksa dish – pineapple, lime, cucumbers, ginger flowers and lemongrass.

2pm: Past lives

Built by Kapitan Cina Chung Keng Quee in the late 19th century, the Pinang Peranakan Mansion served as the Chinese tycoon’s residence and office. The three-story building has a central courtyard and each room is decorated with exquisite antiques that reflect Penang’s Peranakan culture. As you enter the various rooms of the mansions, you will gain insight into Peranakan wedding ceremonies, religious practices, social customs and cuisines. Films and TV shows like The Little Nyonya and Crazy Rich Asians have featured scenes shot in this mansion.

5pm: Local finds

In the mood for shopping? Commemorate your trip with a locally designed batik shirt at Kapten Batik located in Gurney Paragon. This lifestyle store is a space where fashion meets art. Or if you’re looking for creative inspiration, visit Hin Bus Depot, an abandoned bus terminal turned creative community hub. Thanks to a group of independent artists who revitalised the space in 2014, it is now an event space and private gallery for local and international artists.

There’s a market every Sunday where you can peruse the stalls of local vendors and savour an iced coffee on the lawn while enjoying some live music – past performers include Bubblelicia and Los Putetes. Meet local creatives as you browse through an array of handmade trinkets ranging from jewellery to bags alongside stalls featuring antiques and fresh produce.

7pm: Heritage vibes

The cultural exploration continues at China House which occupies three historical buildings that date back to the 19th century. Meticulously restored, this cultural hub and all-day restaurant is a lively venue for jazz bands, up-and-coming artists, and, with their large and rotating selection of cakes, the perfect spot for teatime.

For a Michelin-starred experience, dine at Auntie Gaik Lean‘s Old School Eatery for Peranakan food. This no-frills restaurant has a homey atmosphere with the most delicious Penang Peranakan food. Must-try dishes are nasi ulam, sambal brinjal, assam prawns and beef rendang. The nutmeg punch is highly recommended for a refreshing drink to pair with dinner. Book reservations in advance to secure a spot.

9pm: Night cap

End your night at the artsy Narrow Marrow, a café that doubles as an art space. Their tiramisu, which comes in variations like matcha and dirty chai, also has an alcohol-free version and pairs well with a warm cup of chamomile or peppermint tea. On the level above the café is their art space that hosts exhibitions, DJ events and film screenings. Check their Instagram account for event updates.

Three facts about George Town

• In 1957, George Town was declared the first Malaysian city.
• 7 July is a public holiday in Penang, in recognition of its Unesco World Heritage site designation.
• Movie scenes-from Anna and the King, a film starring Jodie Foster and Chow Yun-fat were shot in George Town.

Stylish stays

• G Hotel Gurney: A luxurious hotel strategically located next to Gurney Paragon Mall and eateries along Gurney Drive. Enjoy the infinity pool located on the 24th floor.
• Seven Terraces Hotel: Peranakan design features paired with antique furniture that allow you to immerse fully in Penang’s historical culture.
• Yeng Keng Hotel: Formerly an Anglo-Indian bungalow residence in the 1800s, this boutique hotel offers visitors an elegant and stylish stay.