Creamy, aromatic and proudly local – Ipoh white coffee started as a local morning ritual in Perak and has since gained recognition across Malaysia and beyond
Photography Aaron Lin
Tucked between Kuala Lumpur and Penang, Ipoh is the capital of Perak state and an easy two-and-a-half-hour drive north of Kuala Lumpur International Airport. Once a tin-mining hub, the city has reinvented itself as a destination known for heritage streetscapes, limestone hills, street food and, above all, its distinctive white coffee.
Walk through the old town and you’ll always find a kopitiam ready to serve a steaming cup. This local favourite traces its roots to the early 20th century, when Hainanese migrants began roasting robusta beans with margarine to soften the bitterness, then adding condensed milk for creaminess and a lighter hue – giving the drink its name, “white coffee”.
The coffee stalwarts
A taste of Ipoh white coffee often begins at Kedai Kopi Sin Yoon Loong (15A Jln Bandar Timah), a no-fuss kopitiam where regulars line up even before it opens at 6.30am. Founded in 1937 by brothers Wong Poh Chew and Wong Poh Ting, it is widely recognised as a pioneer of the city’s signature brew.
Today, 25-year-old Wong Shin Ee carries on the family legacy alongside her parents. “We inherited the business from our great-grand uncle, and I’m the fourth generation,” she says. “Ipoh white coffee is different from other states like Penang or Melaka because of how we roast our beans. We roast Arabica and Liberica with sugar and margarine and we’ve kept the taste as close as possible to the original.”
Her father, 63-year-old Wong Kee Chor, is usually the first to arrive each morning. “I’ve been doing this my whole life,” he says. “The business has changed a lot, but even with rising costs, we make sure our customers always get the best cup.”
Another landmark is Kedai Makanan Nam Heong (2 Jln Bandar Timah), famous for coffee as well as egg tarts and dim sum. The Goh family has run it for 67 years, now into its third generation. “Using the Hainanese roast style with Arabica, Robusta and Liberica gives our coffee a good aroma, stronger body and pleasant aftertaste,” says Mu Kar King.
Over time, they’ve also introduced machinery to ensure consistent quality and to make Ipoh white coffee more widely available overseas.
Blending tradition with innovation
From the 1980s to the 2000s, a slew of coffee brands helped transform Ipoh white coffee from a kopitiam classic into a drink enjoyed far beyond the city and Malaysia.
One such brand is Chang Jiang White Coffee (7 Jln Windsor; @changjiangwhitecoffee), founded in 1988 by Kong Kin Loong. In past interviews, Kong shared how he experimented with adding margarine, condensed milk and evaporated milk during brewing, then “pulled” the coffee back and forth to create its signature frothy finish. Today, Chang Jiang’s range includes the 2-in-1 White Coffee, Mini Kaw Kaw 3-in-1 and the Wangher 3-in-1.
Another familiar name is OldTown, launched in 1999 by four friends who turned white coffee into powdered mixes, recreating a winning recipe with a three-bean blend and their own brewing techniques. The brand now exports across Southeast Asia and to more than 25 international markets. In Ipoh, OldTown has gone back to its roots with White Coffee Experience Centre (2 Jln Panglima; www.oldtown.com.my) – a three-storey space with an art gallery showcasing local works, a farm-to-table café and a gift shop.
Where to get your white coffee fix in Ipoh and beyond
Toh Soon Café. Enjoy freshly brewed coffee and traditional treats in an old-world, rustic ambience. Lebuh Campbell, George Town, Penang
OO White Coffee. Pair your white coffee with soft-boiled eggs, toast and polo buns. 262–264 Lebuh Carnarvon, George Town, Penang
Calanthe Art Café. Known as the “13 States Coffee” café, it serves traditional and modern fare in a vibrant, artsy setting. 11 Jln Hang Kasturi, Melaka
Kedai Kopi Ah Chow. Start your day in Ipoh’s old town with traditional coffee spiked with a splash of alcohol. 31 Jln Bandar Timah, Ipoh, Perak
Thean Chun. Popular for caramel custard and hor fun, this kopitiam also serves classic white coffee. 73 Jln Bandar Timah, Ipoh, Perak
