A younger generation of Malaysian artisans and collectors is reviving the kebaya – stitch by stitch – honouring its heritage while giving it new life
“Passion, patience and interest – that’s what you need to create a kebaya,” says Lim Yu Lin, a third-generation artisan preserving the art of these intricately embroidered upper garments, worn traditionally by Straits Chinese women.
The Nyonya kebaya is instantly recognisable – vivid colours, sheer voile or rubia fabric, and elaborate embroidery stitched into princess-cut panels, sleeves and lapels. The signature look – both feminine and fierce – has endured for generations, though few now possess the skill or patience to make one by hand.
Ang Eng, Lim’s boutique, was first opened by her grandmother in Alor Setar in the state of Kedah in 1955. Now located in Ampang – a town in the Klang Valley, near Kuala Lumpur – here each Nyonya kebaya on display radiates meticulous care and quiet devotion.
The process of making a kebaya remains largely unchanged in Ang Eng. Designs are first hand-sketched and traced onto fabric. Embroidery is done using a treadle sewing machine, followed by kerawang (cutwork) and ketuk lubang – a precise perforation technique using a double needle. A single kebaya takes about a month to complete; more elaborate ones can stretch to three.
With prices starting from RM2,800 (US$658) and custom orders going higher, each piece is a wearable heirloom. Motifs range from florals and abstract geometries to phoenixes and dragons for weddings. Some of Lim’s newer creations even feature motifs drawn from Malaysian life – kuih-muih, wau kites, Merdeka Day.
Still, Lim is frank about the challenges ahead. “It’s hard to find young people willing to sit for eight hours a day, using a manual sewing machine,” she says. “It takes skill to guide every stitch by hand while keeping the pattern steady.” And then there’s the price – to many, the kebaya feels like a special-occasion garment, not everyday wear.
But interest is shifting, especially among younger generations and international clients, drawn in through social media. “They used to say the kebaya was for older women. Now they see it differently,” Lim adds.
WHILE THE NYONYA KEBAYA MAY BE THE MOST ICONIC, the garment’s reach extends across Southeast Asia. Variations exist throughout Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand – each a reflection of layered histories and interwoven identities.
Henry Bong – founder and curator of The Pucuk Rebung Royal Gallery-Museum in Bangsar – sees the kebaya as more than attire. “It’s a colourful outfit full of style and heritage,” says Bong, a 16th-generation Nusantara Peranakan. “It carries civilisational grandeur. The kebaya has roots in the old Malay world, when our territories were deeply interconnected – shaped by trade, travel and cultural exchange.”
Bong’s personal collection is a time capsule, from the baju panjang (long shirt) of the 19th century to the kebaya pendek (short kebaya). Traditionally, the ensemble included a camisole, hand-painted Pekalongan batik sarong, ornate kerongsang brooches, silver belts, beaded slippers and gold jewellery. But Bong insists modern wearers don’t need antique accessories to channel its charm – just a sense of respect.
“You can style it beautifully with Malaysian batik. What matters is understanding how it was originally worn,” he says.
Collectors still seek vintage kebaya, with the finest pieces fetching RM4,000 to RM5,000 (US$940 to US$1,175). One trick to spotting authenticity, Bong says, is in the thread – older kebaya use hard, durable thread that lasts for decades, unlike the fluffy, velvety thread often found in modern reproductions.
Rocking the kebaya
Four Malaysian fashion designers on how the traditional top has inspired their own contemporary creations
Fern Chua
“As a batik designer, I was drawn to how well it complements batik, and wanted to push that further by making batik a central element, not just a supporting textile. The challenge was achieving visual balance, as bold batik patterns required careful attention to scale, composition, placement and contrast.”
Khoon Hooi
“I wanted to pay homage to the countless kebaya found in my grandmother’s closet while growing up as a child in Parit Buntar, Perak, and dreamt up a collection that marries tradition with modern flourishes. The designs reimagine the kebaya in various silhouettes, featuring hand- sewn sulam lace, delicate hand-beaded embellishments on sarong lace, graceful draping and rich brocades.”
Rizman Ruzaini
“We updated the silhouette for contemporary wear by incorporating sulam tebuk-inspired motifs, new fabric blends and a mix of traditional and digital techniques for richness and everyday accessibility.”
Alia Bastamam
“What | find powerful about the kebaya is its versatility – it can be regal, relaxed, delicate or strong. That flexibility makes it a constant source of inspiration and reinvention. In recent collections, we’ve explored nostalgic and modern takes, like split sleeves for a sense of movement and ease or robe-like silhouettes blending resort chic with traditional form.”
Did you know?
Malaysia Airlines introduced the kebaya as a cabin crew uniform in 1963, featuring a chilli-red sarong kebaya with a kutu baru bodice and nine pleats. The current Malaysia Airlines kebaya features floral designs with bamboo and kelarai batik motifs, showcasing Malaysian flora like champak, jasmine and hibiscus.
