Evolving beyond its beloved street food and hawker roots, Penang’s fine dining scene is gaining global appeal thanks to world-class chefs and Michelin stars
Photography Thinnesh Kumar
WHENEVER I’M IN PENANG, I feel like I’ve just stepped into a living tapestry – from centuries-old temples, colonial-era mansions to buzzing street food stalls and the weathered walkways of the clan jetties. All of these form part of the George Town Unesco World Heritage Site, where vivid expressions of culture, history and daily life are woven into every corner.
But this time, I’ve come to Penang with a more curious palate, searching for something unexpected. Amid the kopitiams, curry houses and hawker stalls that define the city’s celebrated food scene, a new wave of overseas-trained chefs is quietly reshaping the island’s gastronomic identity.
As I set out to explore the island’s ever-evolving food scene, what excites me the most is the chance to discover something new – a boundary-pushing dish, a reimagined classic or a chef’s personal interpretation of heritage and haute cuisine.
My first stop is Restaurant Au Jardin, one of Malaysia’s most celebrated fine dining establishments. Tucked within George Town’s artistic hub, Hin Bus Depot (a creative space known for indie art galleries and weekend markets), Au Jardin lives up to its name – “in the garden” – by offering a quiet, refined escape in a repurposed warehouse.
Inside, I’m greeted by raw concrete walls and floor- to-ceiling windows, accentuated by lush greenery and natural light. Elegant yet understated, the space mirrors Penang itself – a harmonious blend of old and new, heritage and reinvention.
“Penang’s culinary canvas is incredibly colourful,” says Su Kim Hock, Au Jardin’s chef-proprietor. “You can enjoy everything here, from street food and cafés to fine dining, if you want to spoil yourself. It’s the complete experience you won’t find anywhere else.”
Au Jardin’s thoughtful fusion of French technique, Peranakan sensibility and Malaysian produce has earned Su and his team numerous accolades, including a coveted Michelin star. It’s also deeply personal, rooted in Su’s French culinary training, Asian heritage and time spent honing his craft in the UK, Taiwan and beyond.
“Penang has one of the widest flavour spectrums in the world,” adds Su. “Beyond the three main ethnic groups – Malay, Chinese, Indian – our food is shaped by Hokkien, Cantonese, Teochew, Peranakan, Thai and expat influences.”
A prime example of that spectrum is Au Jardin’s signature cognac- and hay-aged duck. Perfected through continuous refinement and cooking techniques honed over the years, it’s a sensorial treat every time I experience this masterfully crafted dish.
It begins with the arrival of a smoke box, its soft plume teasing the eyes and nose. Inside, the duck – stuffed with oranges, herbs and hay, then lacquered in cognac and poached in a maltose-vinegar brine – emerges with impossibly crisp skin and deeply flavourful meat.
In its current iteration, the duck is served with fermented guava and guava purée, Szechuan pepper and blanc jus. It’s a dish that lingers on the palate long after the last bite.
“There’s so much more to discover beyond our amazing street food.” – Firewood Grill’s Ker Yang Hao
PENANG’S FOOD CULTURE HAS ATTRACTED talent from across Malaysia, including Ker Yang Hao, co-founder of Firewood, a grill- focused restaurant dedicated to showcasing quality meats and ingredients.
A Taiping native, Ker studied culinary arts in Penang before moving to Singapore to cut his teeth at St Regis and Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen. When the Covid-19 pandemic struck, the entrepreneurial chef returned home and opened Firewood in the heart of George Town.
Today, it’s a Michelin Selected restaurant and proudly ranked 68th in the World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants. Firewood is located on Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling, one of Penang’s oldest and most storied streets and famously dubbed the “Street of Harmony” for its historic religious landmarks that reflect the island’s diverse communities.
Shedding the timeworn charm of its heritage shophouse origins, the restaurant now features a sleek, modern interior – black steel, timber floors, high ceilings – drawing your eyes towards the action at the open grill.
For the full experience, I sit at the counter. The rich aromas of smouldering charcoal and the sizzle of meat on the grill create a captivating sensory display.
Starters like charred white sweet corn and hay-smoked seasonal mushrooms highlight how heat and technique can coax deep, layered flavours from humble ingredients. But the undisputed star is the premium dry-aged beef – sourced from Australia, Japan and Korea – grilled to perfection and served with roasted garlic and Ker’s house-blended Malaysian umami spice.
Is there anything else that satisfies the palate quite like a perfectly cooked steak? I doubt it. “We’ve seen so many talented people in F&B return to Penang from abroad, especially Penangites,” says Ker. “There’s a growing demand for elevated dining experiences from both locals and tourists across the region.”
Though street food remains the island’s biggest draw, Penang’s evolving restaurant scene is now receiving just as much attention. “Our F&B sector needs to step up its marketing game to let more people know that there’s so much more to discover beyond our amazing street food,” he adds.
“My take on lam mee reflects the spirit of Third Culture, honouring where I come from while embracing where I am. It’s a conversation between East and West in one bowl.” – Third Culture’s Khor Sue Ching
MY LAST STOP IS THIRD CULTURE DINING, housed in a restored mid-century bungalow in Pulau Tikus, once home to a local architect. The setting feels stylishly homey and inviting, featuring vintage botanical prints, polished marble and Art Deco furnishings, all curated to reflect minimalist elegance.
The all-women front-of-house team greets me with gracious warmth, creating the kind of dining atmosphere that feels like a reunion with old friends.
After graduating from Lyon’s prestigious Institut Paul Bocuse (now Institut Lyfe) and spending years honing her skills in some of the world’s most esteemed kitchens – La Maison Troisgros, L’Astrance and Septime – followed by refining her farm-to-table approach in Napa Valley and Hawaii, chef-owner Khor Sue Ching brings a fresh, contemporary voice to Penang’s culinary landscape.
Though not a native Penangite, she honours its food heritage through the lens of modern gastronomy and local produce. One dish that perfectly captures Khor’s culinary identity is her take on lam mee, a beloved Penang classic featuring thick yellow noodles served in a rich, thick broth.
Originally conceived as a French-style bouillabaisse showcasing local seafood, it evolved into an Asian-fusion reinterpretation featuring angel hair pasta, grilled king prawns, steamed fl ower crab and a house-made lacto-fermented sambal and dill.
“To me, this dish truly reflects the spirit of Third Culture, honouring where I come from while embracing where I am. It’s a conversation between East and West in one bowl,” says Khor.
She also notes how Penang diners are changing. “A restaurant’s aesthetics and ambience didn’t used to matter as much. But now, thanks to social media, they’ve become key factors in how people choose where to eat.”
As my time in George Town draws to a close, I leave deeply satisfied and genuinely inspired, knowing that Penang’s vibrant F&B scene continues to flourish.
Guided by passionate chefs and rooted in a rich cultural heritage, its offerings – ranging from humble hawker fare to boundary-pushing cuisine – always make for a memorable time.
Malaysia Airlines flies between Kuala Lumpur and Penang 46x weekly, while Firefly flies between Subang and Penang 35x weekly.
Where to stay in Penang
Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa. Unwind in a tropical retreat along Batu Ferringhi Beach. This beachfront haven offers sea- or garden-view rooms, an award- winning spa, a golf course and adults-only zones. shangri-la.com
Eastern & Oriental Hotel. A George Town icon since 1885, the E&O blends colonial grandeur with modern luxury. Expect sea- facing suites, marble bathrooms and impeccable service – perfect for romantic getaways and fans of historic charm. eohotels.com
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion – The Blue Mansion. This iconic 19th-century landmark features antique-filled rooms, daily heritage tours, lush courtyards and fi ne dining at the acclaimed Indigo Restaurant. cheongfatttzemansion.com
