It’s a few days into your holiday in the British capital and your palate is screaming for a taste of home. Here’s where to go if you’re craving…
London may be celebrated for its cosmopolitan dining scene, but even the most adventurous traveller eventually craves something closer to home. Across the city, a new wave of chefs are reimagining Southeast Asian flavours – from Sarawak-style cured fish in East London to duck adobo in Soho. Here are three restaurants where familiar tastes meet fresh interpretations, offering comfort and discovery in equal measure.
Modern Malaysian: Mambow
Granted, Lower Clapton in East London is rather out of the way for the average tourist. However, it’s well worth the trek for Mambow, which serves up some of the best modern Malaysian food in town.
The restaurant describes its vibe as “Malaysian heat and refreshing drinks” – accordingly, diners can pair dishes such as otak-otak prawn toast (red curry and kaffir lime leaf prawns on wild betel leaf), umai (Sarawak-style cured fish) and grilled skate stuffed with sambal and wrapped in banana leaf with a drink of their choice. The menu changes regularly but stays rooted in chef Abby Lee’s Malaysian upbringing, with a dash of European culinary influence. 78 Lower Clapton Rd; mambow.co.uk
Classic Filipino: Kasa and Kin
True to its name, Kasa and Kin is all about hearty, homey fare best enjoyed with family and friends. A café and bakery by day, it transforms into a full-fledged restaurant in the evening, with both classic and contemporary Filipino dishes on the menu.
The grilled lemongrass chicken inasal is prepared in the traditional Visayan style, while the confit duck adobo – duck leg and breast served with a rich sauce of vinegar, soy, garlic and bay leaf – is a modern take on Northern Luzon’s adobong pato. Pair your chosen main with some bagoong (shrimp paste) fried rice for extra oomph. 52–53 Poland St; kasaandkin.co.uk
Street Thai: Speedboat Bar
Helmed by British chef Luke Farrell, who spent nearly 18 years in Thailand, Speedboat Bar is a fun, flamboyant restaurant that pays homage to the late-night stalls of Bangkok’s Chinatown. The vibe is certainly reminiscent of a Yaowarat Road diner, from the strip lights and stainless-steel tables right down to the laminated menus.
Likewise, the food celebrates the big, bold flavours of Bangkok’s street food scene, complete with Thai herbs and spices that Farrell dutifully grows in a nursery in Dorset. Menu highlights include the deep-fried chicken skins, dusted with a delightful umami seasoning, and the pad kra pow (minced beef with holy basil) – best enjoyed with a bowl of steaming white rice, of course. 30 Rupert St; speedboatbar.co.uk
