Jacqueline Tsang, journalist turned travel curator, finds inspiration in the city’s delightful contradictions, sensory layers and hidden corners
Hong Kong means fragrant harbour, and there is a distinct combination of scents that characterises the city. Think top notes of warm, rich fragrances that suffuse luxury stores and malls, mingling with the smoky, spicy scents of Sichuan, Korean, Lebanese or Turkish restaurants. The heart notes, depending on where you are, could smell like concrete warmed by the sun, or wet bark and green leaves in the countryside. All of this is grounded by the briny bottom notes of the sea. I’m not sure if it’s a fragrance anyone would want to wear, but it’s a scent with ample character that I love.
Sensual exploration
It can also be good fun to take the city’s name literally and explore local scent experiences, be it creating your own bespoke perfume at Intime Artisan de Parfum (KSF Business Centre, Queen’s Rd Central; intimeperfume.com), visiting Shiu Shing Hong in Sheung Wan (Wah Hei Building, 130 Jervois St; shiu-shing.com.hk), which crafts scents modelled after your favourite hotel fragrances, or spending a luxe hour at Henry Jacques (1 Austin Rd W; henryjacques.com) exploring its scent library.
My weekend refuge
Weekends for me are about recalibration. Weather permitting, and if I’m outside before the midday scorching sun, I’d walk along the waterfront until I reach Sai Ying Pun, where there are many charming cafés. One of which is Two-and-a-Half Street (1 David Ln; @twoandahalfstreet.hk), which serves up a life-changing Turkish egg croissant.
When I lived in the Sai Kung countryside, my favourite morning activity was running 5km from home to the pier to watch the sunrise. Nights are for cocktails – I like Popinjays (The Murray, 22 Cotton Tree Dr; @popinjayshk) for the décor and ambience, or the tucked-away The Old Man (37–39 Aberdeen St; @theoldman_hk) for their creative cocktails.
The editor’s table
Hong Kong has no shortage of restaurants, local and high-end alike. My favourite haunt of late is Kinsman (65 Peel St; @kinsman.hk), which celebrates old-world Chinatowns from Bangkok to Kolkata, each with its own distinct flavours. Try the dumpling crisps with whipped feta mousse, drizzled with Sichuan mala sauce.
The off-script excursion
There is something fascinating about Hong Kong’s markets, where you can find everything from fresh flowers and eight different kinds of eggs to live chickens and lingerie. If you go to the Causeway Bay one, you’ll end up at the Canal Road Flyover, under which old ladies will beat a piece of paper representing your most hated enemy for a fee (don’t ask me how it works, just trust the process).
In Sai Kung, you can enjoy the tranquil seaside views right by historical shops and independent boutiques. Sai Kung Café & Bakery (6–7 Kam Po Court) has the best pineapple buns (best enjoyed with a slab of cold butter in the middle) and Law of Yoghurt (Ko Fu Building, Fuk Man Rd; @lawofyogurt) serves amazing froyo with oodles of toppings and sauces. On Sundays, stalls along the pier sell everything from essential oils to organic pet snacks.
The parting gift
Give yourself an agenda-free day and just walk. Start from Tin Hau and head west to Kennedy Town, alternating between the inner streets and the harbourside promenade. It’s not far (under 8km) but you’ll still get to experience some of the city’s most traditional shops and cafés as well as its soaring modern skyscrapers. To this day, I still discover nooks, businesses and spaces that I didn’t know about before.
