Actor, restaurateur and coffee connoisseur Steven Lim shares his tips for exploring the northern Thai city like a local
I was born in Kuala Lumpur, studied in Singapore and spent 14 years in London before settling in Bangkok in 2013. As an actor, I trained in drama school and worked in film and television. Most will know me from the Singaporean series Growing Up or The Teenage Textbook Movie.
These days, I consider myself semi-retired, taking on the occasional project while focusing on another lifelong passion: coffee. Like many actors in London, I have worked in cafés between gigs. That’s how I ended up at Monmouth Coffee, one of the city’s most respected names in speciality coffee. I enjoyed it so much that I decided to work full- time for a couple of years and get into coffee properly.
When I moved to Bangkok, the city’s budding café culture drew me in, and eventually I co-founded Luka, a café that blends quality coffee with great hospitality. But now when I need a break from Bangkok’s energy, I escape to Chiang Mai. It’s so creative, the landscapes are stunning and the café scene is thriving. Here are some of my favourite spots.
Start my day right
There are a few key things that you must do when you go to Chiang Mai. One of them is explore the local coffee scene. The whole region around here grows excellent coffee. Among all the great cafés you can visit is local institution Ristr8to. They have several locations, but I love the Roast8ry Flagship on Nimmanhaemin Soi 17. The building is beautiful, too.
Inspire me, please
Chiang Mai has quite a few galleries, including one of my favourites – the MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum, just outside the city centre. But it’s not just galleries. A lot of the ceramic tableware you find in hotels and restaurants around Thailand is produced here. Near MAIIAM, you’ll find all these factories making beautiful plates, cups and décor, some of them glazed in traditional jade-coloured celadon. I love this studio called Roro. Ceramics like theirs are great to bring home.
Give me something good to eat
Khao soi is a must. It’s like chicken curry noodles but with a slightly thicker broth. Even the stall in the Chiang Mai airport makes a good version. For something low-key but special, go to Wanlamun Rim Nam at the Sala Lanna Chiang Mai hotel. The Thai desserts are a must-try. It’s also by the river, so it has a nice view.
Beat the heat – or the rain
Tourists don’t usually think about going to the cinema, because they have cinemas back home. But when my friends travel to Thailand, I tell them, “If you get the chance, do it.” If you go for the VIP experience, you start in a lounge where you can eat and drink before the film, and then you’re ushered to a recliner or a sofa in the cinema. You lie down on these beds and the staff serve you popcorn and drinks. But even the standard movie seats are really comfortable. The price you pay for the experience is incredible.
Venture off the beaten path
Chiang Mai itself is a major-ish city, but nature is just a short trek away. There are so many coffee plantations you can visit, such as Pana Coffee’s farms in Doi Saket and Chiang Dao. If you want to go further, it’s easy to rent a motorbike or a car. One of the last times I was in Chiang Mai, I did a big, two-week tour of Lamphun, Lampang, Nan and Phayao. It’s mountainous, so there are places where the temperatures drop quite low, and in others you can stay in glamping tents in the middle of the rice paddies.
Tell me a secret
Northern Thailand has loads of temples. But I absolutely love Wat Analayothipyaram (Luang Pu Phaibun) in Phayao, about two-and-a-half hours from Chiang Mai. This traditional wooden temple, deep in the forest, is not as busy or popular as the main religious sites in Chiang Mai, so it’s peaceful and very much integrated with nature.
Sleep in style
Thailand in general is so creative, and there are lots of interesting, independently owned businesses and properties everywhere. I love staying at Chiang Mai Summer Resort in the old city. It’s like a homestay – affordable but special. For something artsy, stay at the Chandra Residence; every building was designed by the owners and is filled with beautiful teak furniture and native plants. For a true escape, there’s Pine Village, set among the pine trees and fields in the Mae On district, about 50 minutes east of the city centre. For affordable luxury and lots of greenery, you can’t go wrong with Chantra Khiri Chalet in Ban Pong.
