Acclaimed novelist Tash Aw wrote his Man Booker-prize-nominated debut novel, The Harmony Silk Factory, in the British capital. Here, he takes us around the city he called home for many years
Photography: Tara Sosrowardoyo, Shutterstock
I first came to the UK to study at the University of Warwick in England after growing up in Petaling Jaya. I was 18, had no idea what to expect of Britain and spent most of the first few years being depressed about the weather – something that still gets me down. After university, I moved to London and worked in a variety of jobs while starting to write my first novel.
In those days, I had a lot of time on my hands and explored the city very widely, alone and with friends. It’s true that London is really a collection of villages, each with its own character and ambience, which is what makes it interesting both for the visitor and for people who live there. Now that I have moved away from London, I miss its cosmopolitanism, and the way everyone is able to find their own space in such a vast city.
Most of the things I enjoyed then – the bookstores, the parks and the restaurants – are still around and I make sure I call in on as many of them as possible whenever I’m in the city for work or to catch up with friends. Some of these spots are well-known, but rarely touristy. I’d recommend them to anyone wanting a taste of everyday London life.
Book heaven
There are countless bookstores in the city, many of them independent sellers, but my favourite one is Daunt Books in Marylebone, right on the high street. Independent bookstores have had a tough time in recent years but Daunt goes from strength to strength. It’s certainly the most attractive bookstore in London: oak-panelled shelves, wood parquet floors and a lovely skylight. It also has its own publishing arm.
Parks and inspiration
London is one of the greenest cities in Europe, with parks in almost every neighbourhood. There are also lovely walks along the river or just wandering through the streets. Whenever I needed to be inspired, I’d go to Hampstead Heath and walk without any particular aim. It’s such a vast expanse of wilderness to be found in the middle of a big city, and it’s full of poetry and romance.
Whenever friends came to visit, I’d take them for a walk along the South Bank and end up admiring the view from Waterloo Bridge, which allows you to look at the Thames stretching in both directions.
I could spend many hours wandering Bloomsbury, my favourite neighbourhood. It’s so quiet, old-fashioned and picturesque, full of beautiful Georgian townhouses and interesting spots for coffee and eating, for example around Lamb’s Conduit Street. It’s partly pedestrian-friendly so it’s great for a stroll. It’s also within easy walking distance to the British Museum or Sir John Soane’s Museum, a hidden gem of a museum.
Evening coffee
For my caffeine fix and a spot of people-watching, I’d go to Bar Italia on Frith Street, obviously! It’s also open very late, which is handy for me as I’m a night owl. It’s been around for ages (it opened in 1949) and is something of an institution. It’s got a great old-school vibe and yes, excellent coffee.
Great grub
My favourite breakfast spot was Dean Street Townhouse in Soho in the West End, particularly in the winter, when it feels especially snug. You can have everything from a traditional English breakfast to a fruit salad and coffee with oat milk.
For long, leisurely lunches, I always go back to Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch. They have a constantly changing menu – nothing is ever the same, but everything is always great. The setting – brick walls, garden setups – is beautiful too, especially in the summer.
Sometimes, when I get a craving for food from home, I would make my way to Islington, a tiny residential neighbourhood with lots of small, owner-run businesses, and into Sambal Shiok. Best laksa in town, and a welcoming homely atmosphere.
Downtime
London is such a big, busy city, and there’s always something on – a new show, a new restaurant to try, a music gig to catch. Whenever I needed to relax or decompress, I’d go for a swim at the Central YMCA on Great Russell Street. Or, in the summer, Hampstead Heath Ponds, these natural bathing ponds within Hampstead Heath that are perfect for outdoor swimming.
