Melvin Fernando shares his favourite finds in a place full of surprises, from capybara cafés to speakeasies
I grew up in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, so I’m used to the traffic and bustle, and having your favourite mamak never more than five minutes away. I went to secondary school at St John’s Institution, a place that gave me solid grounding, lifelong friends and more than a few tales to tell.
After studying in Sydney for a master’s degree in marketing, I thought I’d return home after graduation. Instead, life had other plans. I was offered a teaching role at RMIT University in Vietnam’s Ho Chi Minh City and 17 years later, I’m still here – now with my wife, Linh, and our two kids, Melody and Oliver.
What made me stay was the momentum of things. One opportunity led to another, and I found purpose in helping students bridge the gap between the classroom and the working world. Ho Chi Minh City (or Saigon, as many still affectionately call it) felt like it welcomed me in, and it still does. It’s chaotic, vibrant and endlessly surprising, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
One of the best ways to experience the city? Hop on the back of a bike for a tour through alleyways, past homes, street stalls, and even tiny barbershops tucked into corners.
Foodie paradise
Ho Chi Minh City has a kind of energy that’s hard to explain unless you’re in it. Scooters fly past you in perfect choreography while food stalls tucked in narrow alleys serve some of the best meals you’ll ever have. Vietnamese cuisine is packed with flavour and heart.
Dining at Cuc Gach Quan (10 Dang Tat, Tan Dinh, District 1; cucgachquan.com), for example, feels like having a meal at someone’s house. Must-try dishes include bun thit nuong (grilled meat on rice noodles and vegetables), ca kho to (claypot fish) and a good old bowl of pho ga (chicken soup).
For the best banh mi, nothing beats Banh Mi Huynh Hoa (26 Le Thi Rieng, District 1; banhmihuynhhoa.vn). If you’re in the mood for something upscale, try Anan Saigon (89 Ton That Dam, District 1; anansaigon.com), located in the historic Cho Cu market. Their Saigon Tasting Menu takes you on a culinary journey from North to South Vietnam with local ingredients and French technique.
For visiting Malaysians who are feeling homesick, Banana Leaf Saigon (46/6 Pham Hong Thai, District 1; bananaleafsaigon.vn) is my fix. The nasi lemak reminds me of my Sundays in KL, and their roti canai hits the spot. I’ve even converted some Vietnamese friends, who are now rendang fans.
Coffee is a ritual here. For meetings, I usually go to The Workshop (27 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1; @theworkshopcoffee). But for a proper Vietnamese experience, nothing beats ca phe sua da (iced milk coffee) which you can find anywhere. On a hot day, it’s like drinking melted coffee ice cream. If you’re feeling adventurous, try Little Hanoi Egg Coffee (multiple locations; littlehanoieggcoffee.vn).
Shop, stroll, repeat
Unlike the mall-heavy landscape back home, boutique and concept stores are big here. L’Usine (multiple locations; lusinespace.com) blends fashion and coffee culture and Metiseko (101 Dong Khoi, District 1; metiseko.com) offers beautifully made, sustainable fashion with a Vietnamese soul. For something cooler, The New Playground (26 Ly Tu Trong; District 1; @thenewplayground) is a treasure box of local streetwear and independent designers.
When guests want souvenirs, I take them to Saigon Kitsch (43 Ton That Thiep, District 1; @saigonkitsch_shop) or Mai Home (Thu Duc City, District 2; maihomedecor.com) for artisanal lacquerware and textiles.
Family time,anytime
With kids, we’ve discovered plenty of family-friendly spots in the city. Snow Town (125 Dong Van Cong, Thanh My Loi, District 2; snowtownsaigon.com) is a fun, faux winter wonderland and indoor playground. tiNiWorld (multiple locations; tinicorp.com) is another favourite. Kapi Café (36 Thao Dien; @kapicafe.vn) has got capybaras, so enough said. For green space and fresh air, we head to Crescent Lake Park (Phu My Hung, District 7) – it’s perfect for picnics or just letting the kids run wild.
