Entrepreneur Samantha Low opened The Weaver’s Tale, a boutique specialising in Cambodian artisan-made products, in the capital. It’s a tribute to the artistic heritage of her vibrant new home.
Photography: Sam Low, Shutterstock
I was born and raised in Petaling Jaya, a bustling satellite city that borders the even busier KL. Even when I was a kid, PJ was always a foodie’s paradise, and I grew up with pasar malams (night markets) and kopitiams (coffee shops serving Malaysian dishes). Later, the city would also come to be known for mega-malls and green parks.
In 2019, my husband unexpectedly announced that his new job would be based in Phnom Penh. An easy transition, we thought. Then Covid-19 hit the world, and everything went haywire – we couldn’t really explore our new homeland until almost two years into our repatriation.
During the pandemic, staying at home meant shopping online. Handicraft has always intrigued me. As I browsed through Facebook, I came across a brand called Fair Weave, and it was love at first sight. I got to know the brand’s story better and was slowly introduced to other handicraft brands that were unique but did not have much retail presence.
In early 2022 I opened The Weaver’s Tale in Phnom Penh – and last year, in Siem Reap too – to showcase the richness of Cambodian craftsmanship to locals, expats and tourists from across the world. It was a daunting project for me as I had zero knowledge about retail. This was truly a case of passion in the face of adversity. Phnom Penh is where I discovered my entrepreneurial side. Here are some of the other things I love about this fun and fast-changing city.
Food paradise
I love Khmer food and one of my all-time favourites is nom banh chok, a coconut-based fish laksa with fresh herbs and edible flowers. I usually have it at an unassuming hawker with a view of Wat Botum Park, near the Royal Palace. Otherwise, if I’m feeling fancy, I go to Sombok Fine Dining Restaurant, which serves all my favourite Khmer dishes – like fish amok (steamed snakehead fish curry), beef salad, prahok (fermented fish) dip salad – in gorgeous plating.
Cats and coffee
There are many coffee shops in the city, and I often get my fix at a homegrown chain called Brown Coffee and Bakery or at Enso Cafe along the shop-lined Street 240. Sometimes, I like my coffee with some feline therapy, so I go to Catera, a cat café at Toul Tompoung. It’s also a rescue centre that shelters cats while they wait for kind souls to give them a forever home. I’m an animal lover and every now and then I join a group of like-minded volunteers to feed the strays at some pagodas like Wat Langka Pagoda near the Independence Monument.
Handmade with love
I love Cambodian crafts (so much so that I created a whole store!). It all started with Fair Weave, a brand known for its intricate and high-quality handwoven throw blankets with unique Khmer designs. They provide a livelihood to more than 50 Cambodian weavers.
While I was setting up the shop, I also got to know numerous other local brands built on weaving and a desire to help communities, such as Mrs Sophea, Maya Handicrafts, Cambodia Knits, Khmer Ceramics, Manava, Rokhak, Loleibe Beeswax Candles and so many more.
A great range of hotels
When friends and family come to visit, I recommend the Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra for its beautiful, landscaped garden and colonial-era stylish interiors, or Rosewood Hotel, for its panoramic view of the city and luxurious experience. But for friends who want to experience local culture, I point them to Maya Garden, just a 20-minute ferry ride away from the city centre, for a stay in a traditional Khmer wooden home. It’s a wonderful escape from the city.
If these walls could talk…
Phnom Penh has many beautiful buildings – starting with the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, with their wonderfully manicured lawns. Although these are ornately gilded structures, there is a humble and graceful presence in the architecture.
For first-timers to the city, I tell them to visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, if they can handle it. It’s not for the faint-hearted – you have to walk through the gruesome corridors of a former school to experience shocking visions of how easily people can forget their humanity. But it’s also an important reminder of one of the most harrowing episodes in recent world history.
Art life
When I need a good, inspiring dose of art, I head to DinArt Gallery, which shows works by Cambodian artist Teang Borin, better known as Din, who’s well known for his signature apsara dancers. Every art piece of his is so captivating that I always end up spending more time there than I intend to.
Take a sunset cruise
We get impressive sunsets over the city and one of the best viewing spots is a boat on the Tonle-Bassac River. For a lovely sunset cruise, I recommend the Kanika boat at Sisowath Quay ($8 for a sundowner cruise without the disco lights).
