Spend an afternoon wandering the alleys of one of Bangkok’s hippest neighbourhoods
One of the greatest lessons I’ve ever learned about Bangkok is that, as overwhelming and busy as it may feel, you can find a completely different atmosphere on its smaller side streets, known locally as sois. For this reason, the neighbourhood of Ari, with its many winding side streets and alleys, has become one of my favourite places to visit each time I’m in the Thai capital.
Originally known as a residential area for wealthier Thais, Ari has earned a reputation over the past 15 years as one of the city’s hipster districts, blending trendy cafés with more low-key traditional restaurants and evening food stalls.
Ari 4 Fang Nua Alley, a 10-minute walk from the Ari BTS sky train station, has become ground zero for young, trendy Thais to visit on the weekend thanks to its many cute cafés like Matcha People (46/1 Phahon Yothin 7; @matchapeople.bkk) and Roots at Ari (50/2 Phahon Yothin 7; @roots.bkk). The strip can get crowded on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, but Bay.aree (111 Phahon Yothin 7; @bay.aree) on the main road is a great place to people-watch with an iced latte or an Aperol Spritz.
Ari is also home to a few cute stores like Vintage.bytida (4 Alley, Samsen Nai; @vintage.bytiidaa), where you can find a selection of high-end second-hand bags, clothing and accessories, or Unformed (36/7 Phahon Yothin 7; @shop_unformed) for a collection of casual women’s clothing and small gift items like pottery and perfume.
Ari gets less crowded by the time evening rolls around, which makes it a great place for dinner, whether you’re in the mood for Thai, pan-Asian or even Italian. One of my favourite spots is the ultra-casual outdoor Nong Max Thai Food (2/32 Soi Ari 1, Samsen Nai; Facebook/Nong Max’s Larb and Som Tum Restaurant), where you can order Thai milk tea and a selection of traditional dishes for a very reasonable price. If you’re craving a hearty local meal or just want air conditioning, the Michelin-rated Ongtong Khaosoi Ari Branch (31 Phahon Yothin 7; @ongtongkhaosoi) around the corner specialises in the famous khao soi northern Thai coconut curry served with noodles and meat or tofu.
Ari also has its share of trendy international dining options like the seafood bar Fishmonger Ari (10/6 Ari 4 Alley; @fishmonger.bkk), which serves fish and chips, fresh squid and fish steak from lunchtime until late. Try the restaurant and bar Salt (111/2 Phahon Yothin 7; @saltaree) around the corner if you’re in the mood for a glass of organic wine and pizza against a chic backdrop or out on their open-air terrace.
Getting there: take the BTS sky train to Ari station (N5) and head towards exit 1.
