One of Hong Kong’s oldest communities draws fresh fans hunting for good coffee and leisurely bites, slower streets and the perfect cinematic holiday shot by the waterfront
Illustration: Blanche Llanes; Photography: Shutterstock
Known for relatively affordable and spacious apartments in a city infamous for sky-high rents, Kennedy Town has always had a certain old-timey charm. Named after the British governor Arthur Edward Kennedy, who presided over Hong Kong in the late 19th-century, the patina of old buildings, the constant steam wafting from hole-in-wall noodle shops and the aroma of specialty coffee creates an atmosphere of nostalgia.
Even as cool cafés and trendy restaurants have popped up over the years, lending large doses of glamour, it has kept its casual neighbourhood vibe. If you need a break from the pulsing, neon-lit, bustling energy usually associated with one of Asia’s busiest hubs, ride the iconic Hong Kong Tramways from Central to its westernmost stop, Kennedy Town. Bonus tip: sit on the upper deck and enjoy the view as Central’s gleaming skyscrapers gradually give way to gritty tower blocks.
1. Belcher Bay Promenade
A stroll around this area gives you a glimpse into modern-day Hong Kong life – toddlers burning off energy at the playground, renegade skateboarders, leisure fishermen and couples on casual dates enjoying the breeze. There’s even a dog park and an organic hydroponic farm. If you’re feeling energetic, complete the loop as far as Sun Yat Sen Memorial Park or just turn back at your own pace. Along Shing Sai Road
2. Little Cove Espresso
After you’ve worked up an appetite, treat yourself to a leisurely brunch at this spacious restaurant along New Praya which opens up to the seafront. Dig into the highly recommended Beef Benedict on Sourdough Rye. Shop 3, G/F, New Fortune House, 3–5 New Praya
3. Fish and Chick
The British may have left Hong Kong over 25 years ago, but their influence lives on in the form of traditional fish and chips at this long-time K-Town favourite. Fish and Chick has branched out to other parts of Hong Kong, the third and latest one opening at nearby Sheung Wan, but there’s something to be said about the original – this popular eatery also offers slow-roasted chicken as well as other pasta and salad dishes. Shop 6, 25 New Praya
4. Sheung Hei Claypot Rice
Another neighbourhood classic, this lively spot specialising in dim sum and claypot dishes – cooked to a smokey crisp over charcoal stoves – has a well-earned Bib Gourmand nod. Apart from the extensive claypot menu of over 30 different offerings, the restaurant also serves Chinese home-style dishes such as Peking Ribs. It’s often busy, so time your visit well. 25 North Street
5. Lo Pan Temple
If you’re so inclined, make a quick side trip to this Chinese temple dedicated to Lo Pan, a Chinese engineer, carpenter and military strategist who is considered the patron saint of contractors and builders. 15 Ching Lin Terrace
6. Winstons
Venture into the backstreets of Kennedy Town, enjoy the detours and perhaps end up on Forbes Street, packed with cute cafes and eateries. You’ll find a mix of local and international flavours (there’s even a Marks and Spencer). Winstons is a cosy cafe by day and a lively cocktail bar at night, unmissable with its retro cinema signage. Shop 8, The Hudson, 11 Davis Street
7. Sai Wan Swimming Shed
A short distance away lies the Sai Wan Swimming Shed, offering a glimpse into Hong Kong’s history and an iconic spot to catch the sunset. This is the last remaining swimming shed on Hong Kong’s waterfront. The sheds, built by the Hong Kong government in the 20th-century, once provided changing rooms and wooden piers for swimmers. Along Victoria Road, Mount Davis
8. Golden Scene Cinema
Head back to Kennedy Town proper and catch a movie at Golden Scene Cinema. This popular addition to Kennedy Town’s nightlife is dedicated to showcasing Hong Kong classics, indie films and the latest blockbusters.
9. Westside
End the day trip with sharing plates and good vibes at one of Hong Kong’s best Mexican restaurants. Don’t miss their highly raved Churros III Ways – it’s totally worth the hype – and if you’re around on a Tuesday, enjoy half-priced, delicious tacos filled with veggies, fish or chicken. 1/F, The Hudson, 11 Davis Street
