Hit these four trails and prepare to fall in love with picture-perfect views and cinematic sites / PHOTOGRAPHY Josh Griggs
Auckland is relatively young. Originally inhabited by Maori tribes who called it Tāmaki Makaurau (or “Tāmaki desired by many”), it was formally established as a modern city in 1840 and declared New Zealand’s capital a year later. But for all its youth, it’s a city with captivating stories.
“There’s an enormous amount of history in Auckland, especially when tracing back to pre-European times,” says Terry Hobin, operations director and senior guide at Auckland Walks, a company that’s been telling the city’s tales through engaging heritage tours and themed walks for over 20 years.
Perhaps the most interesting story lies beneath it: Auckland’s volcanic field – 600 square meters that’s home to more than 50 dormant volcanoes. Over the last 100,000 years, geologists claim that outbursts from these volcanoes have dramatically shifted the terrain, creating the stunning and varied landscape it is today.
For this reason, Auckland has a lot to offer visitors who choose to explore it on foot. Where else can you climb to the summit of a dormant volcano less than 15 minutes from the central business district? Or drive less than an hour from the city centre to walk on coastal cliff sides shaped by volcanic activity?
Whichever of these four trails you choose, you’ll be rewarded with wild, spectacular views you’d only dream of seeing in the movies.
1. Maungawhau (Mount Eden)
Standing at 196m tall, Maungawhau is Auckland’s highest volcanic cone. About 28,000 years ago, it erupted for the first time, leaving a large mound with a 50m-deep crater in its wake. The mount was a Maori pā (fortified village) before the Europeans arrived. Today, it’s one of Auckland’s most-visited mountains, drawing a million visitors to its summit each year.
On a clear day, you’ll see its well-preserved bowl-shaped crater as well as the impressive Auckland city skyline, the Waitākere Ranges and Rangitoto Island. You might also recognise the mountain as a location for Netflix’s Sweet Tooth series. To honour the sacred nature of the summit and ensure pedestrian safety, vehicle access to the top is limited.
There are several ways to walk to the crater and some trails can be stony and steep, so stay on designated paths. The primary route commences at the entrance on Puhi Huia Road, which takes you on a scenic 2km trek along the old summit road, and connects you to the crater rim track.
Want to get to the summit in less time? From Puhi Huia Road, climb the 300m ascent to the crater. This route can be rather steep, so make sure you can handle the incline.
2. Piha Beach
Recognised as the birthplace of modern surfing in New Zealand, Piha Beach is one of the country’s foremost surf spots and a hiker’s dream. Standing guard on its black sand shores is the iconic Lion Rock, a majestic landmark that’s actually the eroded neck of a volcanic eruption 16 million years ago. This iconic beach set the scene for Amazon’s The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power. And just off Piha Road lies Karekare Beach, the stunning location for Jane Campion’s 1993 Oscar-winning film The Piano.
Here, the Karekare Falls trail is an easy, 600m trail that leads you to the 30m-tall Karekare Falls in the Waitākere Ranges Regional Park. It takes about eight minutes to do the walk and is perfect for groups with very young kids or elderly family members with mobility issues. Make sure to pack a swimsuit and take a dip in the falls.
For a more challenging hike, the Mercer Bay Loop Track is a 2.1km trail set high above Piha’s cliffs, providing an excellent vantage point for dramatic coastal views. The path provides good traction, with gentle descents and inclines through native forests. Take your time and enjoy panoramic views of the Tasman Sea.
3. Muriwai Regional Park
Less than an hour’s drive from Auckland’s city centre, this West Coast beach has “wild” written all over it – from the consistent swells sought out by surfers and black volcanic sand to the rugged pillow-shaped cliffs hewn from hot lava that erupted underwater and then rapidly cooled. Muriwai Beach is home to the gannet, a large seabird known to dive into the water at up to 100kmph, and the kororā (little blue penguins). It’s a natural stunner and also served as a filming location for The Rings of Power.
The area offers plenty of hiking options. For beginners, the Muriwai Gannet Colony Walk is a 1km round-trip hike along gravel paths and wooden steps. This leisurely route features subtle inclines that take you to a spot overlooking the windswept beach and Muriwai’s well-known gannet colony.
4. Rangitoto Island
Considered one of New Zealand’s youngest volcanic islands, Rangitoto’s most recent eruption occurred just 600 years ago. This pest-free island has a flourishing ecosystem, where native flora and feathered creatures like the tūī, saddleback, bellbird and fantail thrive. To get there, board a 25-minute ferry ride from either the Downtown Auckland Ferry Terminal or Devonport Ferry Terminal.
The Rangitoto Summit Track starts at the Rangitoto Wharf and is a 7km hike on gravel paths and volcanic scoria, which are sharp jagged rocks that can be slippery, so proceed with caution. Depending on your pace, it will take one to two hours. Tramp through lava fields, native scrub and forests of Pōhutukawa trees (aka the New Zealand Christmas tree whose red flowers bloom in December). It’s an otherworldly scene that provided the backdrop for Under the Mountain, a New Zealand film starring Sam Neill of Jurassic Park fame.
As you move closer to the top, you’ll climb wooden stairs that lead to a viewing deck, giving you sweeping panoramic views of Auckland’s impressive harbour. If you’re up for a challenge, take a 15-minute detour about two-thirds of the way to check out the lava caves. Make sure to pack a flashlight.
4 walking tours of Auckland’s laneways, historic landmarks and hot spots
1. The Art & The City Walk lets you get to know Auckland through its heritage buildings and modern structures that have diverse art spaces and collections. Learn more about Maori and Pacifica art and craft, and gain insight into public art installations around the city. Held on Saturdays.
2. Auckland Free Walking Tours gives you a quick intro to the city, with knowledgeable guides taking you around iconic locations in the Downtown area. There’s no charge but guests are encouraged to make a donation.
3. The Waterfront Auckland Walk offers insight into a city that was created by seafaring people. Discover sites of early Māori settlements, learn how the waterfront has been transformed through the years and revel in the nation’s yachting victories.
4. The Auckland Historic Bar Tour is an entertaining guided tour around the city that combines storytelling and sightseeing with your choice of tipple. It offers non-alcoholic options as well as craft beers and New Zealand wines.
