Beyond Melbourne, discover coastal escapes, hot springs, lush gardens and creative gems in regional Victoria
A rush of warmth envelops my back as gas hisses and the balloon slowly rises.
Peering over the edge of the basket, I take in the sprawling city below. Riders cycle alongside the snaking, espresso-hued Yarra River. Trams trundle to and fro, the ding of their bells drifting up from the streets. Sporting shrines synonymous with the metropolis pass below in a patchwork of manicured green.
Melbourne is one of few major global cities you can fly over in a hot air balloon, and my ride with Global Ballooning gives a gentle introduction to the land: a sprawling coastal city threaded by the Yarra, ringed by bayside suburbs, and within striking distance of some of Victoria’s finest regional destinations. Once my feet are back on solid ground, it’s time to trade the panoramic view for a more intimate look at what makes this city tick.
In Melbourne, the fastest way to the city’s heart is through its stomach, and options abound at all price points. South Melbourne Market, the city’s oldest operating market, is a haven for food lovers, and a 90-minute guided tour with Flavourhood delivers some of the country’s best seafood, new cheeses and Spanish pastries straight from the oven.
Tucked among the mature elms of the Fitzroy Gardens, a short tram ride east of the city centre, is Yiaga, meaning “to seek and find” in the local Woi wurrung language of the Wurundjeri people. The restaurant entrance, covered in 13,000 handmade tiles to mimic the bark from surrounding trees, leads into a quiet antechamber that hints at the elevated journey ahead. Within months of opening in October 2025, the restaurant was awarded three hats – the country’s highest culinary honours – recognising chef Hugh Allen’s extraordinary talent and vision.
The kitchen champions local Australian produce and native ingredients on an ever-evolving menu. I’m guided through a 12-course degustation that surprises and delights at every turn. Non-alcoholic pairings are given an impressive level of consideration, made daily by chefs (my chilled infusion of brioche and Granny Smith apple is sublime). Be prepared and book three months ahead to partake in the experience.
That evening, I retreat to my city base and prepare for the next chapter: exploring regional Victoria for its coastal experiences, grounding hot springs, impressive gardens and creative artisans.
Geelong and Bellarine Peninsula
I hit the road early for Geelong, Victoria’s second-largest city and an underrated gem. It’s an hour’s drive southwest of Melbourne, or a scenic ferry crossing with Port Phillip Ferries between Docklands and the seaside town of Portarlington.
The region is renowned for its quality producers and the most unique way to experience their wares is aboard the Q Train, with its restored carriages that rock gently along the Bellarine Railway. I spot the train from the car window and make a mental note to book its award-winning five-course degustation on my next visit.
All is not lost on the food front. Pulling up at Jack Rabbit vineyard, I’m tempted by the smell of fish and chips drifting from the café but opt instead for their fine dining restaurant. I am amply rewarded when dishes so fresh they could leap from the table emerge from the kitchen. I linger over empty plates, gazing at the sparkling water beyond.
I am bathed in sunlight as I board the Portarlington Mussel Tours boat, Valerie. Grateful for calm seas, I get a hands-on lesson in mussel farming and the area’s history. It must be said: the taste of plump mussels eaten straight from the ocean is incredible.
Mornington Peninsula
An hour south of Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula is the city’s playground: a picturesque escape rich in natural beauty, history and bespoke artisans. It’s the artisans that lure me here first. I blend scents that sound good enough to eat – chocolate, coconut, lime – during a candle-making workshop at Red Hill Candle Co. While the candle sets, I pop down the road to Red Hill Lavender Farm to indulge in lavender scones and ice cream in stunning gardens. Fortunately, I got here just in time before their seasonal closure from May to September, when they tend to their fields before reopening in Spring.
I then experience artistry on a grander scale at Pt Leo Estate, home to Australia’s foremost privately owned Sculpture Park. I wander around the outdoor gallery, marvelling at works by KAWS, Yayoi Kusama and dozens of other artists. All that creativity works up an appetite, and the menu at Rare Hare in Jackalope Hotel more than hits the spot. Hot tip: their woodfired chocolate chip cookie is even better than it sounds.
An afternoon of relaxation follows. Peninsula Hot Springs offers a bracing fire and ice workshop. Stepping into the sauna for the first time, I feel as though my breath has momentarily left my body, before being instantly calmed by our guide Jodie. “You’re here to build your health, happiness and strength,” she says. Emerging more invigorated than I’ve ever felt in years, I concur wholeheartedly.
Directly across the road, the newer Alba Thermal Springs and Spa is too good to skip. From a private pool on The Terrace, I catch the technicolour sunset accompanied by birdsong. Dinner at the in-house restaurant Thyme is the perfect punctuation to a day of pure serenity.
Bendigo
Bendigo, Australia’s first Unesco Region of Gastronomy, lies under two hours northwest of Melbourne, or a breezy 90-minute train ride from Southern Cross Station. Either way, the journey is worth every minute.
The Vintage Talking Tram Tour is the perfect introduction to this goldrush city, with tales unspooling as the tram trundles past impressive buildings and manicured gardens. I stop for tea at Peppergreen Farm, a social enterprise on the site of historic Chinese market gardens, before continuing to Lake Weeroona, where a shaded deck table at Whitby café makes for an early lunch with a side of waterside people-watching.
A post-lunch stroll through Chancery Lane and the Bendigo Visitor Centre showcases the local creative spirit and illuminates the area’s Aboriginal history. And the day culminates at Langley Estate, where an organ performance, a delectable high tea and a property tour sum up Bendigo’s particular magic: a living history lovingly kept.
Handpicked retreats
Why rush back? These premium stays turn a day trip into a decadent getaway
1 Hotel Melbourne
Michelin Key-awarded and sustainability-focused, this beautifully restored heritage shed on the Yarra waterfront offers river-view rooms, a wellness spa and an ingredient-first restaurant. 1hotels.com
Lon Retreat & Spa
An adults-only retreat with seven individually designed suites, an award-winning mineral spa and 250 acres of conservation land on the Bellarine Peninsula. lonretreat.com.au
Peninsula Hot Springs
Eco lodges and glamping tents with private geothermal baths, nestled within the award-winning hot springs and wellness destination on the Mornington Peninsula. peninsulahotsprings.com
Hotel Ernest
Ten art-filled suites in a heritage building in the heart of Bendigo, with hatted restaurant Terrae serving a seasonal menu straight from the hotel’s own farm. hotelbendigo.com.au
